Fish Fry (Chepa Vepudu)

Summary

As the Indian cookbook author Archana Pidathala worked to translate and rewrite her grandmother’s collection of recipes from Andhra, in southeastern India, one of the first dishes she mastered was chepa vepudu, a simple fish fry. In Kurnool, where Pidathala grew up, her family would eat the spicy, crisp fish dish when there was a fresh catch of murrel available, also called bull's-eye snakehead, a delicious freshwater fish. But almost any fish, cut perpendicular to the spine, into small steaks, will do nicely. Marinated quickly in a simple spice paste, and shallow-fried, the fish becomes golden and crisp all over, and takes on the flavors of caramelized ginger and garlic, browned coriander seeds and red chile. Be sure to use a nonstick pan, or a well-seasoned cast-iron pan, to keep the fish from sticking or the marinade from falling off.

Yield

4 to 6 servings

Time

45 minutes

Ingredients

• 4 large garlic cloves, peeled
• 1 2-inch piece ginger, peeled and roughly sliced
• 1 teaspoon red-chile powder
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• ½ teaspoon turmeric
• 2½ teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 tablespoon lime juice
• ¾ cup all-purpose flour, rice flour or semolina
• 2 pounds fish steaks, such as bass, haddock, mackerel or swordfish, cut into about 6 1-inch-thick slices
• 6 tablespoons neutral oil
• 1 lime, cut into wedges
• 1 handful cilantro sprigs

Method

1. Using a mortar and pestle or a food processor, grind the garlic and ginger into a smooth paste, using a splash of water if necessary to catch the blade. Add the chile powder, black pepper, coriander, turmeric, 2 teaspoons of salt and lime juice, and mix until smooth. Add a scant tablespoon of water if the spice mix is packed and dry (it should be thick, but you should be able to easily spread it over the fish with your fingers).
2. Add flour and 1/2 teaspoon of salt to a plate, mix well and roll the fish pieces around in it, coating each in flour. Shake off any excess flour, then gently rub the spice paste all over the floured fish pieces. Cover, and set aside to marinate for about 15 minutes.
3. Heat oil in a wide, shallow nonstick pan, or seasoned cast-iron pan, over medium heat. When the oil is hot, slide the fish pieces into the pan, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, then carefully flip over to cook another 3 to 4 minutes on the other side. The spice paste should be evenly browned and crisp in places, and the fish should be cooked through. (If the pan is small, don’t crowd it. Cook the fish in batches, removing any burning spice paste remaining in the pan after each batch, and adding more oil as needed.) Transfer cooked fish to a paper towel to drain, then to a serving platter with the lime wedges and cilantro sprigs.

Source

New York Times Magazine, 15 May 18